La Superior

The interior of this Williamsburg taquería resembles a bunker given a funky low-budget face-lift, and its diner-style setting and service can be charitably described as no-frills. But the Mexican street food, served in tapas-style portions, is vibrantly seasoned and generally satisfying, especially anything stuffed into a corn-masa casing. This includes the gorditas, the quesadillas, and the tacos, which come one to an order on a single corn tortilla, stuffed with savory morsels of things like chipotle-stewed chicken, poblanos and cream, or mildly spicy shrimp. The house is proud of its esquites, the popular Mexico City (and Sunset Park) street snack of sautéed corn kernels seasoned with epazote, queso fresco, chile powder, and a dab of mayonnaise served here in a Dixie cup, but the real signature, to our mind, is the torta ahogado, a “drowned sandwich” of carnitas and beans on a sourdough loaf, completely drenched in chile-spiked tomato sauce. You’ll need silverware or a bib — or both.