Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte

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76 Solid

An antique form of Frenchness is on display at the Manhattan outlet of the famous Parisian steakhouse in the 17th arrondissement.

590 Lexington Ave., New York, NY, 10154



Known For

The lowdown

The recipe for this Parisian steak-and-frites chain’s famous butter-and-cream-based sauce might be as closely guarded as the one for Coca Cola (the key, according to Le Monde, is an infusion of chicken-liver essence), and as every fan of this quirky establishment knows, is almost as ruinously addictive. Non-addicts might notice that the salad (“with walnuts”) that arrives prior to your platter of less-than-prime-quality beef is a little scraggly, that the cheese plate appears to have been bought at the Food Emporium, and that the bread hoisted to the table by your possibly non-French waitress is dry. But hopeless junkies (like me) won’t care. The dizzying fatty richness makes dessert superfluous (although the profiteroles aren’t half bad) and at $29.95 for a steak, salad, and all the frites and sauce you can stuff down your craw, the prices can’t be beat.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized