Leonelli Taberna

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78 Solid

A casual, Roman-ish restaurant from chef Jonathan Benno.

7 E. 27th St., New York, NY, 10016

212-451-9495

https://www.leonellirestaurants.com/

Reserve on OpenTable

Known For

The lowdown

Jonathan Benno’s boisterous, Roman-inspired “Taberna”, in the lobby of the Evelyn Hotel, in Nomad, serves the usual jumble of accessible, familiar rustico-style favorites, including ravioli stuffed with ground lamb, bricks of gooey green spinach pasta lasagna, a de rigueur “Taberna Burger” (with melted provolone and hot peppers), and lavish cuts of “bistecca” sliced off the bone in the classic faux Tuscan style. Some of these dishes tend to work better than others, which is more or less par for the course when it comes to open restaurants located in noisy, transient hotel lobbies around town, although if you’re in the mood for a quick pick me up, the kitchen serves a variety of “stuzzichini” small-plate snacks to share as you enjoy the many ersatz Negroni combinations available at the bar.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesGnocchi alla Romana.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized