Lil’ Frankie’s Pizza

The irresistible offspring of Frank is distinguished by its custom-built brick oven, a tool used to sublime effect on everything from torpedo-size eggplants to whole fish and terrific thin-crust pizza. Not even its baked-egg brunch selection is spared a scorching kiss of its 900-degree heat. The light yet earthy black-truffle pizza teeters deliciously on the edge of oversaltiness, but cut it with a juice glass of Montepulciano, or get your vegetables the traditional way — in the unfailingly fresh heirloom-tomato salad.