Chef Erik Ramirez calls Llama Inn a New York Peruvian restaurant, but a better term might be New Brooklyn Peruvian. It exhibits the familiar characteristics and culinary signifiers of its genre: the classically trained fine-dining chef casting off glitz and glamour for cheaper rent and a shaggy hipster clientele; the stripped-down menu and unfussy décor; the shared-plates mandate; coffee and cocktail programs that are as assiduously considered as the menu. Most telling, though, is the food, which is Peruvian in flavor and inspiration but tweaked just enough to make it seem personal and distinctive. You’ll want to slurp up every lingering drop of the ceviche’s leche de tigre, and the quinoa salad incorporates bacon, banana, and cashews to transcend its health-food-grain-bowl reputation. Bring enough of an appetite (or enough guests) to take full advantage of the large-format dishes, like Ramirez’s twist on the Peruvian-Chinese classic beef stir-fry called lomo saltado, and one of the city’s best whole-fish preparations.