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86 Very Good

Accidental pizzaiolo Mark Iacono opened this Carroll Gardens pizzeria as a labor of love.

575 Henry St., Brooklyn, NY, 11231


Known For

The lowdown

Accidental pizzaiolo Mark Iacono opened Lucali in 2006 as a labor of love, to save the local candy store of his Carroll Gardens youth from an uncertain, generic fate (i.e., becoming a Subway or Dunkin’ Donuts, he feared). After devoting himself to the monklike regimen of making old-fashioned thin-crust, brick-oven pizzas, Iacono has created a business that has instantly become woven into the neighborhood fabric, a cozy, softly lit, and effortlessly soulful spot where families commune over the simple pleasures of Iacono’s rough-hewn, satisfying pies, all of them made front and center at a workstation that looks like a stage. Vestiges from the candy store hang on the brick walls, along with a chalkboard menu restricted to pies and calzones. It’s cash-only, BYOB, and no reservations. But the lack of familiar trappings only adds to its charm, not to mention the epic lines.

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

What you need to know

Insider Tips Cash only.


Noise LevelCivilized