Madame Vo

As the son of Vietnamese refugees who went on to open several restaurants in Chinatown, Jimmy Ly spent much of his childhood in professional kitchens, which goes some ways to explain his unfussy but masterful approach to pho, devised with Yen Vo, his wife and partner. Motown plays at their ambitious new spot, which has fresh coconuts galore and Instagram-ready snacks like bò bía, rice-paper rolls taut with shrimp, jícama, and sausage. Brisket steeps 24 hours in the pho stock, amplifying the pho’s bone-brothiness, which diners can supercharge with roasted oxtail. Specials include bún riêu, a hard-to-find tomato-based soup laden with minced pork and crab.