Manhatta

With its stripped-down décor, and its large, convivial bar scene, this much-publicized Danny Meyer venture atop the 60th floor of an office tower on Liberty Street downtown feels like the Windows on the World for the post-millennial, non-gourmet era. That’s a good thing if you enjoy well-turned bourbon cocktails (the eponymous “Manhatta”) and impressively panoramic skyscraper views of the the city. But the slightly bare-bones French-themed menu (roasted chicken, trout, an average lunchtime burger) is a disappointment, especially by Meyer’s lofty standards. If it’s first-class, fussed-over “gourmet” cooking of the old school you’re after, there are other places to spend your money.