Marc Forgione

This Marc Forgione Tribeca flagship began life several years back as a stolid farm-to-table establishment, which is not surprising given that the chef’s father, Larry Forgione, more or less introduced New Yorkers to the concept of locavore, free-range dining decades ago at his seminal restaurant, An American Place. But the younger Forgione is a veteran of the reality cooking-show circuit (he was an Iron Chef champion), and he’s always had a nose for the fashionable populist trends that wash back and forth across the ever-changing fine-dining landscape. You can snack on Laotian sushi in the woodsy dining room, these days, or spicy hot chicken wings, and chunks of Haiwaiin kampachi tossed with avocado. In the family tradition, however, the specialties of the house tend to be those reliable old barnyard favorites like the Pennsylvania veal, a well-aged porterhouse, and platters of country chicken roasted under a brick, and served with its own drippings.