Misi

At this popular vegetable-and-pasta-themed venture on the south Williamsburg waterfront, Brooklyn’s great Italian-food savant, Missy Robbins, continues her trend toward minimalism and a kind of crowd-pleasing functionality to an almost extreme degree. There are ten vegetable choices on the carefully edited one-page menu (grilled artichokes with mint, fat chanterelles, whole eggplants designed to be scooped with a spoon) and ten equally polished pasta options (the linguini with anchovies and bread crumbs, the dumplings), and a variety of generally impeccable gelato for dessert (the fiore di latte). But there’s ultimately a kind of numbing sameness to the proceedings that may make old Italian-restaurant traditionalists long for a sliver of prosciutto di parma, or refrigerated, out-of-season tomato salad, or even a finger bowl of the famous Robbins cacio e pepe fritters to munch on between your pasta and vegetables.