Momofuku Noodle Bar

This is where it all began for David Chang and the Momofuku universe back in 2004 — well, technically, it was a few doors south, in a deceptively fertile sliver of a space that later also birthed Ko and Fuku. But despite grander dimensions and larger menu, Noodle Bar 2.0 retains all the genetic material that spawned many of the trendsetting dishes the brand has become known for: the unorthodox riffs on ramen; the inventive seasonal small plates; the pork bun. It is also home of the large-format fried-chicken feast, the best poultry-focused group meal since Thanksgiving. All of these things have established a very specific identity, but to Chang’s credit, the restaurant’s greatest strength might be the way it continues to evolve, a reflection of the impact made by all the talented chefs who’ve passed through the kitchen and left their marks.