Even among New York’s murderers’ row of noodle masters, Shigetoshi “Jack” Nakamura stands out. He is considered a ramen god in Japan, where he started his career nearly 20 years ago; develops recipes for the influential Afuri chain; and is revered here by the likes of David Chang and Ivan Orkin. His name may be less known outside of hard-core ramen circles, but everyone should know his torigara shoyu, a classic bowl of chicken-and-seafood broth seasoned with Japanese soy sauce. It’s the most compelling bowl in town right now, with a delicacy and balance that fattier, more robust ramen options simply can’t match. The noodles are firm and chewy, and the savory broth clings to them with ease. And it’s topped with hamlike pork shoulder or rich belly meat (the former is leaner and more flavorful, the latter adds a deeply luscious note). Finally, the shoyu lends a sweet, roasted flavor that deepens the whole experience.