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84 Very Good

A bright, buzzy vegetarian restaurant from celebrated chef John Fraser.

72 University Pl., New York, NY, 10003


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Known For

The lowdown

Vegetables have been at the apex of the food-fashion pyramid for years now, so it’s no surprise that the former Conde Nast tastemaker James Truman would get around to developing a restaurant devoted to, well, hyperfashionable vegetables. His partner at this posh little establishment is the multitalented John Fraser, and we’re happy to report that not ALL the creations are designed for the hyperskinny and the righteously starved. Pay attention to the “Bolder” column of the menu, which features fatso items like a hunk of deep-fried potato bread the size of a small limpet mine, and an ingenious David Chang–meets–General Tso vegan-chicken mash-up made with tempura-fried pieces of cauliflower shellacked in a sticky sauce flavored with paprika, served with a bamboo steamer filled with a stack of moon-shaped steamed buns.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized