Okonomi

If oatmeal and grapefruit is your idea of a healthy breakfast, ichiju sansai will be a revelation. Chef Yuji Haraguchi’s version of “soup and three,” served from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, is the set-price, seafood-centered Japanese breakfast most often encountered in posh hotels. This 12-seat nook is a cozier setting for a ridiculously nourishing meal: the day’s catch cooked one of four ways, served with a cube of Japanese omelette, vegetables, seven-grain rice, and miso soup. At night, the space morphs into Yuji Ramen, the hit noodle den that blazed a trail for broth-less mazemen by incorporating Italian technique and peddling creative dishes like salmon cheese ramen.