The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

Read more about the new ratings
84 Very Good

This pizzeria and natural-wine bar is an ideal neighborhood restaurant.

346 Himrod St., Brooklyn, NY, 11237



Known For

The lowdown

Ops is the sort of restaurant everyone actually wants in their neighborhood, a place where no one has to announce to you how casual it is. Part of this is because the dimly lit, brick-lined space, occupying a former garage, feels genuinely relaxed and warm. This is in large part because of the laid-back, French-country style of service that co-owner Marie Tribouilloy sets the tone with. Another part is because the restaurant specializes in pizza and wine, two things people always want. Tribouilloy and partner Mike Fadem don’t try to do too much, just a few things really well. Puffy, chewy sourdough pizzas blanketed with discs of mortadella or “many onions,” lighter Neapolitan-style calzones, and a few other dishes like a rotating salad (always get the salad) and marinated feta. There’s no real wine list, but it’s all highly affordable and natural, so just tell them what you like; you might be suggested an effervescent white or chilled red.

Chris Crowley

What you need to know

Insider Tips They sell loaves of great sourdough on weekends.

Recommended DishesSquare pizza; pops pizza; cicero pizza; salad.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized