Ops is the sort of restaurant everyone actually wants in their neighborhood, a place where no one has to announce to you how casual it is. Part of this is because the dimly lit, brick-lined space, occupying a former garage, feels genuinely relaxed and warm. This is in large part because of the laid-back, French-country style of service that co-owner Marie Tribouilloy sets the tone with. Another part is because the restaurant specializes in pizza and wine, two things people always want. Tribouilloy and partner Mike Fadem don’t try to do too much, just a few things really well. Puffy, chewy sourdough pizzas blanketed with discs of mortadella or “many onions,” lighter Neapolitan-style calzones, and a few other dishes like a rotating salad (always get the salad) and marinated feta. There’s no real wine list, but it’s all highly affordable and natural, so just tell them what you like; you might be suggested an effervescent white or chilled red.