Orsay

Like its adopted neighborhood, French brasserie Orsay overflows with tradition and class with subtle leather seats, white tablecloths that nearly reach the ground, and just a whiff of the Paris beloved by Hemingway and Fitzgerald. Unlike the new breed of French restaurants, like Le Coucou and Frenchette, Orsay keeps it simple, serving classics like French onion soup, Dover sole with fingerling potatoes, and one of this town’s finest plates of steak-frites. It’s a dated form of dining, yes, but sometimes it’s nice to revel in the past.