Osteria Morini

Osteria Morini is celebrated chef Michael White’s ode to rustic Italian cooking, set in the not-so-rustic neighborhood of Soho. In classic White form, it’s a painstakingly reproduced homage — this time to the cooking of Emilia-Romagna, one of Italy’s great eating regions — so, expect meat and cheese boards packed with mortadella, aged prosciutto di parma, and Parmigiano-Reggiano Vecchio as well as one of the city’s great pasta selections from a classic tagliatelle with bolognese ragù to spallina stuffed with duck and seasonal produce. But don’t let the promise of starchy heaven distract you from the restaurant’s steaks (like the $135 40-day dry-aged tomahawk rib eye) or the simple but lovely affogato.