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84 Very Good

Sophisticated cooking and (relatively) affordable prices are the main draws at this Brooklyn newcomer.

791 Washington Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11238



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The lowdown

This small, studied Crown Heights establishment features many of the happy quirks associated with what’s been called the “Brooklyn Twee” school of fine dining — a fanciful, somewhat precious name (“oxalis” is a kind of herb), an actual herb garden out back (it will be in full bloom this spring), “handmade,” locally sourced cocktails and dishes, and an ambitious, highly credentialed cook in the kitchen (Nico Russell has worked at Daniel, among many other fancy places). There’s a certain high-minded lack of practicality to the proceedings (instead of pizza or wings, the bar menu features pork neck and lardo-covered flat bread) but Russell’s ever-changing $60 tasting menu is one of the better deals in this increasingly discerning, gourmet-focused part of town.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Insider Tips The tasting menu’s beverage pairings ($35 with alcohol, $20 without) are worth the money.

Recommended DishesMushroom broth, steelhead trout, duck, white-chocolate mousse, and housemade brioche.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelHushed