Oxomoco

The tequila and mezcal drinks are plentiful at this festive, L.A.-style Mexican joint in Greenpoint, the excellent moles, salsas and soft, purple-hued masa tacos are all house made, and during the course of the day almost everything on the deep, deceptively sophisticated menu (whole chickens, charred vegetables, lamb and beefsteaks, the great brunch time “pombaza” burger, vegetables of every kind) gets thrown on one of the two fire-belching grills in the back of the house. The daily brunch service is worth a special trip if you live in the neighborhood, and if you don’t, you might want to make a special trek for the first-class, Michelin-approved tostados and tacos, which the kitchen layers with all kinds of exotic combinations, including chunks of tempura shrimp and Thai basil, and a mouth-watering version of al pastor made with bits of pineapple mingled with chicken thighs instead of the usual pork.