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Similar deceptively simple pleasures issue from the roaring, state-of-the-art wood-burning ovens at Pasquale Jones, the second addition to the downtown-Italian-restaurant portfolio of Ryan Hardy and his wine-impresario sidekicks, Grant Reynolds and Robert Bohr. The well-designed Neapolitan pizzas get all the press at this sporty, Mini Cooper–size Nolita establishment, and if you actually manage to secure a table at lunch or dinner, by all means call for one or two of the pies (the classic marinara, the majestic white clam), but neglect chef Hardy’s expertly calibrated wood-oven creations at your peril — in particular, the warm leeks dressed with Parmesan and toasted walnuts, and the cannonball-size pork shank for two, which is oven-roasted to a kind of fruity tenderness and garnished with a delicate dusting of fennel pollen and a deliciously salty slick of melted lardo. — Adam Platt

Warm leeks, clam pizza, chicken and/or pork shank, grilled fruit with gelato. 

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