Perry St

The dining room at this far-west-side Jean-Georges Vongerichten neighborhood joint (he owns an apartment in one of the icy, all-glass Richard Meier structures above the dining room) feels serene and subdued, a muted symphony of soft whites (chairs and banquettes) and tan browns (wooden tables), all encased in glass. When it first opened, the food also had a muted, slightly tossed-off feel to it, like the great chef was dabbling in the kitchen, in between trips to the other properties in his far-flung empire. But Jean-Georges’s son, Cedric, is now in the kitchen, and the menu is chocked with elaborate iterations of grandiose favorites like poached lobster, roasted Crescent duck, and pan-roasted Dover sole. The lunch and brunch services are among the most professional in this slightly remote part of town, and we’re happy to report that the kitchen now serves a gourmet “smash-burger” to go with the famous house-fried chicken.