Pho Grand

The speciality at Pho Grand is a hearty beef stock with cilantro and a hint of onion, the namesake soup pairing nicely with airy rice noodles and beef of six varieties — from brisket to tendon to navel. Beyond the bowl, there’s barbecued shrimp served with squares of thin noodles and thick slices of pickled carrot and radish. Sesame-marinated beef is rolled into thin strips atop a giant bowl of vermicelli. And the gravylike chicken curry has notes of ginger and sops up well via an accompanying baguette. Although a generic exterior makes it easy to overlook, Pho Grand’s flavorful cooking outsizes its Bayard Street competitors.