Pizza Moto

Some of the most impressive and inventive pizza in the city is found beneath the green and rusted girders of the Gowanus Expressway, behind a stack of split logs that burn inside its ancient oven. Green-market options inform starters like a springtime asparagus dish with Pecorino and a buttery six-minute egg, while pies have a slight sourdough tang, with spots of char, bubbles galore, and a tellingly wispy, inner-tube-like outer crust. Sour pickled chilies, broccoli rabe, and spicy sausage dot one pizza that also sports a mantle of melted mozzarella and vaporized ricotta. Smooth buffalo mozzarella, nutty Pecorino, almost-fermented tomato, and a splash of bitter olive oil combine to majestic effect in the entry-level margherita.