Most pizzerias allow you to choose your toppings; PN would like you to pick the flour used in the dough from which your pizza is made. The flours range from organic stone-ground Italian whole wheat to high-gluten Canadian mingled with farro and rye, and, yes, it’s no coincidence that the place is owned by a flour company. While this may seem like the promotional gimmick to end all promotional gimmicks, the pizzas are first-rate: remarkably tender-crusted with well-articulated pockets of air that aficionados associate with long fermentation, and some nice charring around the cornicione. And that’s not all: There’s good antipasti and great housemade pastas, including a tagliatelle alla trapanese, a specialty of the Sicilian chef’s. Skip the lamb burger, though.