The venerated East Village original, which was destroyed in the 2015 gas explosion that killed two people, is now in the West Village. The lineup of 30 dipping sauces, most of which are built on the sturdy chassis of Hellmann’s, are back, along with expanded seating and tabletops with precut holes to keep those cones of hot fries aloft. Beer and wine are available for the first time, and the fries are just the way they used to be. Several batches roil continuously in hot oil, and they emerge from the fryer textured and shaggy, deeper-hued than Ponyboy gold but not quite Trump orange. Bring on the Vietnamese pineapple mayo.