All respect to the revered L&B Spumoni Gardens, but New York’s current king of the square is Noho’s Prince St. Pizza. Successor to the original Ray’s, it’s a slice-lover’s slice shop, with a brick-lined Marsal & Sons oven that turns out Sicilian slices that, at their best, put the leaden, middling squares sold at many parlors to shame. The three Sicilian-style slices look imposing, but the dough is anything but dense. It’s airy with a crunchy bottom and soft interior, substantial but not leaden. It’s the sort of slice you can’t help but wolf down and is gone before you know it. Nothing beats the dangerously good Spicy Spring, with its mildly spicy and complex fra diavolo sauce and cups of oil-catching, extra-crispy pepperoni. It’s the kind of slice you order two of when you only have room for one, then can’t help but order a third to go, undaunted by the threat of a food coma. The ultragarlicky, thin grandma slice, a.k.a. the Mercer Margherita, will do you well, too, as will the regular slices, if you’re a round-or-bust kind of slice hound.