Quality Italian

Unlike its sister restaurant, Quality Meats (and like the Alan Stillman mothership, Smith and Wollensky), this Italian-themed expense-account destination is explicitly billed as a steak house and doesn’t let you forget it, with seven different steaks on the menu, from a filet mignon Gorgonzola dolce to a bone-in sirloin, and that’s before you manage to crawl your way to the entrées. The mains include the usual array of pork chops and branzinos and veal chop Milanese, but the star of the show is the namesake dish, a chicken parmigiana that looks more like an artisan pizza than what grandma served for dinner. Indeed, it’s cut into slices, and you’re encouraged to try it with its accompaniments: The bitterness of the arugula complements the savory, juicy chicken, and the spicy chile-honey accents the sweet tomato sauce. At $29 per person, it doesn’t quite live up to its outrageous asking price, but a single serving is generous enough to feed a family of four.