Quality Meats

The Quality Meats space is a kind of fever dream of quaintly realized butcher-block references, including a white-plaster cow’s head affixed to the entrance wall, a bar lined with decorative jars of bourbon mash, and industrial-style chandeliers fashioned from giant steel meat hooks. Order roast chicken at this particular steakhouse, and it comes smothered in preserved citrus. Order the very nice steak tartare, and it arrives in a dainty bowl with an equally dainty wooden spoon on which the tartare spices (you mix them in yourself) are arrayed like a little rainbow. There’s plenty of decent steak to be had once you’ve waded through all this ephemera, although it doesn’t come cheap, and if you want to enjoy the full flavor of this great fresser’s specialty, order the 64-ounce double cut, a huge, Rabelaisian haunch of beef, carved tableside in thick dinosaur slices for two.