Red Hook Tavern

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83 Very Good

Hometown Bar-B-Que’s Billy Durney designed his second restaurant as an homage to the intimate corner taverns of his youth.

329 Van Brunt St., New York, NY, 11231

Known For

The lowdown

With its much-praised trophy burger, its sense of raffish, neighborly camaraderie, and its roster of hungry-man foods inventively conjured by a first-class chef, Billy Durney’s latest contribution to the burgeoning Red Hook dining scene is a throwback to the old days of the corner neighborhood tavern, and also to that time in the not-so-distant past when high-end gastropubs were popping up all over town like barista bars. The exceptional, Peter Luger’s-style burger is worth a visit, but don’t sleep on Allison Plumer’s pan-fried chicken (with mashed Yukon Golds and gravy), which is one of the finer new big-city iterations of this old country classic.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Insider Tips The house opens at 5 p.m., which makes this the prime time to secure a seat at the bar.

Recommended DishesRomaine wedge, chicken-liver pâté, dry-aged Red Hook Tavern burger, pan-roasted half-chicken, fior di latte sundae.

DrinksFull Bar, Beer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized