Saint Julivert Fisherie

The announcement of a new Alex Raij and Eder Montero restaurant is always a happy occasion, but when the joy of seafood is the specific theme in these seafood-challenged times, it’s cause for special celebration. You’ll find all sorts of strange little wonders served up in this little railcar-size Cobble Hill dining room, including silvery anchovies plated with little moons of unmelted vanilla butter, bowls of risotto folded with chopped conch and smoked eel, and that ugly-delicious Catalan speciality, goose barnacles, served with proper ceremony in a fold of white linen. Die-hard beef lovers should call for the Prego sandwich, a kind of Portuguese steak-bomb, which you can get dressed with a mess of fat fried oysters for an extra fee.