Calling Shelsky’s a restaurant is debatable: Seating is limited to a few high-tops near the front windows and the operation is definitely focused on takeout and catering. But there are few better weekend choices in the neighborhood than stopping by this Jewish appetizing and delicatessen shop for a bagel heaped with nova or one of the excellent deli sandwiches. The thorough menu of smoked fish includes around ten types of salmon and eight types of herring, plus whitefish, mackerel, trout, and more. Over at the deli counter, homemade pastrami is served hot, juicy, and salty, cut with tangy mustard on Orwashers rye, alongside corned beef, tongue, and a definitely unkosher Reuben. And there are plenty of sides and snacks (Riesling-braised sauerkraut, several types of knish, kasha varnishkes) to round out your feast. On your way out, be sure to grab a few pieces of flaky rugelach, with fillings that range from rich dark chocolate to a bright ginger-clementine mix.