The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

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86 Very Good

At Shuko, no expense has been spared to track down the kind of trophy items that sushi snobs covet.

47 E. 12th St., New York, NY, 10003


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The lowdown

Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau’s popular, much-praised (including by us) Union Square operation tumbles a little in these updated rankings for all the usual reasons — the unrelenting crush of popularity, the arrival in town of a new wave of competition, the challenges of innovation, and the sense, on our last visit, of the same ideas being repeated again and again. By today’s standards, however, $180 is not a bad price to pay for a full mini-omakase feast (up to 16 pieces of sushi with a few non-sushi items thrown in), and there’s still no glorified fish house in town that combines upscale quality with that down-home, distinctively infectious New York City backbeat.

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized