Snack Taverna

The owners of Snack, Soho’s five-table Greek café, have expanded to the West Village with this superb, comparatively spacious restaurant. There’s room here for a bar and a greater selection of Greek wines (Assyrtiko! Moschofilero! Xinomavro!). The menu reads Greek but looks and tastes altogether new: the saffron-scented crushed-almond sauce bolstering stuffed grape leaves; the intense flavors of oven-roasted tomatoes and fresh mint enlivening braised lamb shoulder — all of which are perfectly complemented by the affordable Greek wine list. There’s even a superior souvlaki at brunch, if you’re homesick for Athens — or Astoria.