Sugarfish

This New York branch of Kazunori Nozawa’s much-hyped L.A. sushi chain is more satisfying than your average sushi-deli experience, and much more reasonably priced than most big-city high-roller omakase experiences around town. Like a house band running endlessly through the same set of songs (soft textures, a touch of acid, warm rice), the kitchen tends to hit the same numbingly agreeable notes again and again, however, and the last time we checked, the wait to get a table at peak hours was still insane. Avoid the more dicey à la carte options (grade-C tuna belly, chalky unagi eel, funky-tasting uni) for the iconic $51 “Nozawa Trust Me” omakase option, since in life as in sushi, you generally get what you pay for in the end.