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69 Not Terrible

This West Coast’s Shake Shack of sushi produces a mid-level omakase for the price, but the wait for a table is nuts.

33 E. 20th St., New York, NY, 10003


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The lowdown

This New York branch of Kazunori Nozawa’s much-hyped L.A. sushi chain is more satisfying than your average sushi-deli experience, and much more reasonably priced than most big-city high-roller omakase experiences around town. Like a house band running endlessly through the same set of songs (soft textures, a touch of acid, warm rice), the kitchen tends to hit the same numbingly agreeable notes again and again, however, and the last time we checked, the wait to get a table at peak hours was still insane. Avoid the more dicey à la carte options (grade-C tuna belly, chalky unagi eel, funky-tasting uni) for the iconic $51 “Nozawa Trust Me” omakase option, since in life as in sushi, you generally get what you pay for in the end.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksSake/Soju, Beer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized