Super Taste Restaurant

The décor, such as it is, leaves much to be desired. And the mood, as set by the glum slurpers who patronize the place, is as cheerful as a July 4 picnic at Guantánamo Bay. But this tiny Lanzhou-style hand-pulled-noodle specialist offers one of the most delicious bowls of noodle soup in Chinatown for an absolute pittance. Try No. 2, or “Hand-Pull Noodle w. Beef In Hot & Spicy Soup” — about a quart of deeply flavored, sinus-clearing broth with an anchor of perfectly chewy spaghettoni-size noodles. Another delicious bargain: ten hot and hefty zheng jiao (meat-stuffed dumplings) as wrinkled as prunes and emitting a cartoon trail of steam as they’re portaged from kitchen to table on a Styrofoam plate.