Sushi Katsuei towers head and shoulders above any other Japanese restaurant in Park Slope. The trio of chefs responsible for the nine-course omakase experience stand like austere Pep Boys behind the counter in the spartan space. But as the tasting menu unfurls, their soft sides show. Tender is the agedashi tofu in its ethereal broth; how mindfully placed the orange jag of sea urchin or the slice of fatty tuna, sprinkled with yuzu, of the nigiri. How much thought did they put into this boîte in bougie Brooklyn? There’s even a kosher omakase option.