Sushi Satsuki

Former Sushi Zen chef Toshio Suzuki is one of the OG godfathers of the city’s sushi scene, and if you happen to have $230 at your disposal, it’s a pleasure, early in the evening or after the lunchtime rush, to slip into one of the eight seats at this tastefully appointed subterranean bar on West 47th Street and listen to him discourse in his friendly, dignified way on the traditional style of doing things. Everything we tasted was top-notch, but pay attention to the chef’s signature eggy tamago, which he mixes the way the sushi masters in the old country taught him to do, with dashes of tofu and yam, because eggs were a scarce commodity back in wartime Tokyo.