Tacos El Bronco

At its brick-and-mortar home base, the famed taco truck’s fans enjoy specials like guaxmole rojo res — a guaje-seed-thickened, beef-rib stew — amid wall-to-wall alpine murals depicting Bronco’s equine namesake mid-frolic. Dozens of cemitas, baroque tostadas, and restorative soups like consomé de chivo cram the extensive menu. Decorated with colorful murals of meadows with ponds and bucking horses, the restaurant is anything but low key on a busy day. The full menu expands on the truck’s more limited spread, offering Mexican breakfast dishes, soups, seafood, platos, and fresh smoothies and aguas frescas. Oddly, masa-based antojitos like sopes and huaraches taste vaguely of peanut butter, the seafood cocktails are ketchup-y, and the specials are hit or miss. What you want is what it built its name on: tacos. Order from a list of almost 20 different varieties, ranging from lengua (tongue), tripa (tripe), and cabeza (veal head, a favorite here) to more common but solid options like carnitas, pastor, and carne enchilada. Each comes with grilled green onions, radishes, cucumbers, and lime wedges, in addition to the salsas (you’ll want to put the wonderfully salty tomatillo-avocado verde on everything) on the table. They’re available in small or regular, but go with the former so you can try as many as possible. Cuidado: the mole poblano starts off quite bitter but also fruity, nutty, herbal, and smoky, then builds slowly to a pleasingly spicy burn that sort of steams in your mouth, like a lingering vapor. Get it over enchiladas or a succulent chicken leg, with a side of piping-hot tortillas to sop it up.