The guy working the counter of this unassuming, mostly takeout Filipino joint warns anyone who orders the adobo that it’s not the traditional brothy chicken dish, so as to avoid disappointing Pinoys expecting an unvarnished taste of home. But the fact that expats make pilgrimages to this Bed-Stuy spot is a tribute to chef Aniceto Reña Jr. and his menu, which is as affordable as it is refined (nothing costs more than $12). That adobo involves chicken thighs cooked in duck fat, its traditional surfeit of vinegar absorbed into the savory rice it’s served with. Bicol Express, another classic, applies the standard coconut curry to sous-vide pork belly. And Reña Jr., who previously worked at Cosme, suffuses cocoa rice with mole spices and treats it as a base for house-smoked mackerel. The dishes are compostable, the drinks come in cans, and the focus seems decidedly on delivery, but from the very first biodegradable-bamboo forkful of food, there’s no mistaking the talent in the kitchen and the finesse on the plate.