Tamarind Tribeca

Although India is a symphony of cultures across its 29 states and seven union territories, its cuisine has been dominated by Punjab, a northern state, because Punjabi men have historically been drivers — of trucks, buses, etc. — and craved a taste of home at dhabas, India’s roadside eateries. Tamarind, the now-stand-alone Tribeca outpost of a since-closed Flatiron original, romanticizes Punjab as “the land of five rivers” and takes soaring space — 175 seats in 11,000 square feet — to elevate that Indian diner food toward the Olympian reaches of fine dining. While dinners are, of course, its showcase — hello, lobster masala! — the secret to this place is its three-course “executive business lunch”: an appetizer, two main dishes, and a dessert for around $30. The dining room can be packed midday with South Asian groups, even spilling over to seating at the bar. For good reason: saag and paneer have never been so amicably divorced, especially the latter, which struts in sweet tomato sauce and Ayurvedic garam masala spice. Meat — especially lamb — is both sculptural and tender. Nothing wows, but nothing fails either (like the best diners, white tablecloths or not). Aloof, clumsy service aside, it’s a welcome departure from the neighborhood’s typical fare. When was the last time your lunch ended with saffron ice cream?