Tanoshi Sushi

There are much grander venues in the neighborhood to get your elevated omakase fix these days, but not many of them combine the relaxed, slightly ramshackle sense of intimacy and occasion that this quirky little York Avenue institution does, a testament to the legacy of the late chef-owner, Toshio Oguma. The crowd has the convivial feeling that you find in the more casual, workaday sushi joints around the big fish markets of Japan, and the fish is almost as fresh. The great drawing card used to be the prices, which hovered in the mid-two figures for a standard 12-piece omakase, although lately they have been creeping up toward the $100 mark.