New York tearooms have never been known for their food. That changed when Elena Liao and her husband, Frederico Ribeiro, opened their tiny Té Company in the fall of 2015. Rather than traffic in trendy matchas, let alone scones, Liao made the oolongs of her native Taiwan her mission, sourcing directly from farmers, brewing each pot with laser focus and effortless grace, and spreading the gospel of this overlooked category to anyone willing to listen. Ribeiro, a Portuguese native and former Per Se sous chef, has devised a complementary menu of Taiwanese-inspired fare, which has as its core a superb bowl of braised pork belly over rice, or lu rou fan, a dish served throughout the island. (A vegetarian option is always available, as are snacks like spicy peanuts and sweets like preserved kumquats.) The overall effect is one of serenity and neighborly spirit, a haven for both contemplation and delectation.