Torishin

Everything that comes off the grill at this upscale yakitori is a marvel of flavor, texture, and char — but the amount of food per skewer feels wildly disproportionate to the price, so a meal here can get very expensive, very fast (the chicken wings, for example, are perhaps the tiniest in the city). Skip the few tables; the action’s at the bar. Savor duck and chicken meatballs, quail breast, grilled fruity little tomatoes, crispy leeks, earthy mushrooms, and a heavenly oyakodon (chicken and egg rice bowl). And don’t miss the final bow: An exquisite shiso-leaf (Japanese basil) sorbet, like a superfine granita with a subtle, savory kick.