Toro

Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette’s great aircraft carrier of a restaurant in the Meatpacking District doesn’t conjure up images of intimate little bar hangouts back in old Catalonia, but with a wide-ranging, faithfully executed menu like this, who cares? The familiar members of the great tapas canon (a thin, garlicky pan con tomate, dry-cured chorizo with ibérico ham) are decently represented here, but pay attention to some of the more radical innovations, like slim house croquettes made with salt cod, served with tempura lemon rings and aïoli; and the chefs’ delicious pressed sea-urchin sandwich, with miso butter and pickled mustard seeds.