Tortilleria Mexicana Los Hermanos

If not for the scent of toasted corn wafting out of its nondescript storefront, you might walk right past Los Hermanos — a tortilla factory on a stark Bushwick block. But there is good reason to stop: in the spring of 2006, the owners set up a tiny cantina in the delivery dock, where excellent Mexican grub is offered with a side of spectacle. Through Plexiglas partitions, diners view workers baking and bagging their brand of delicious wraps. The heavenly maize flats come off the line warm and chewy and go straight into the kitchen to be partnered with one of seven fillings. The most popular is the chorizo — sausage is ground, grilled, and laced with small chunks of potato to cut the spicy flavor. Avoid the mediocre chicken; a carnitas taco and the spicy enchilada also made with pork pack more punch. The delicately cooked fillings hardly need additional dressing but house-made salsas are a delight on their own — smoky chipotle adds sultry heat while the tangy tomatillo discharges major firepower on the spicy end. Lines of starving-artist neighbors snake out the door at peak hours (generally 9 p.m.) but the grill masters keep things rapido.