Traif

Chef Jason Marcus’s flaunting of all things unkosher could have been seen as a slap in the face to the nearby community of Hasidic Jews, but his orthodox neighbors are unfazed by the concept. Off of a hyperseasonal menu and out of the diminutive open kitchen come neat small dishes for sharing. Yes, there’s pork, mingled meat and dairy, and bottom feeders of all stripes. But there’s also Buffalo frog legs with blue cheese, pickled watermelon, and celery salad. Or a delightful truffled egg toast with nothing sacrilegious about it. On Saturdays after sundown, the narrow dining room can get frenetic with tightly packed tables. You’ll miss the view of the mural inside, but it’s better to snag a spot in the garden room looking out onto a lush backyard landscape. If you want a cocktail that doesn’t come with a side of swine (like the Rude Little Pig does) get a Dark Horse Crooked Tree IPA. Will the rabbis of Williamsburg be tempted to break their religious vows for one of Marcus’s famed bacon doughnuts? Maybe not, but it’s likely you’ll be tempted to return for more.