A Hell’s Kitchen Mexican deli made good, Tulcingo annexed the store next door for a full-fledged sit-down restaurant — tablecloths, white Zinfandel, and all. The setting is nice and the service nicer, but you’re here for the food, which is fresh, well seasoned, and extremely filling. Skip the antojitos and soups (except maybe for the soothing posole) if you want do full justice to a plato, which you will. Especially if it’s the pipián de pollo, a couple of slow-cooked chicken parts in a verdant sea of creamy pumpkinseed sauce that is so ample it will employ every single steamed tortilla in the basket. Of the three invigorating house salsas, green is best.