Una Pizza Napoletana

New York’s pizza culture has expanded and matured since one of the city’s original Neapolitan-style pioneers, Anthony Mangieri, first burst onto the scene many moons ago. This space down on Orchard Street is larger and slightly more antiseptic than his original space on the fringes of the East Village, and nothing about the puffy, yeasty pies feels revelatory or groundbreaking, especially at $25 a pop. But thanks to his partners Fabian von Hauske and Jeremiah Stone, of Contra fame, you can complement your dinner with a variety of non-pizza items, and like music fans who’ll pay to see renditions of the songs they’ve heard again and again, there’s a certain value to catching the performance of a quirky, uncompromising master of the genre practicing his craft night after night.