Upland

At this versatile downtown establishment, Justin Smillie’s particular version of California cuisine passes directly through the hills of Tuscany and Rome by way of the downtown market restaurant Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria, where the talented cook made his New York reputation. There are dishes for every occasion on the menu, including lunch, dinner, and the exceptional house brunch, and many of them (bucatini cacio e pepe, the legendary roast pork, the pepper-crusted short ribs for two, the lunchtime burger) are worth the price of admission.